Wednesday, February 26, 2014

the last chapter on Australia: Sydney

                             
                                        First view of Sydney from the airplane....

The weather in Sydney could have been better. 
We haven't seen the sunshine since we left Hamilton Island. Most of our days here have been cloudy and drizzly. Our first night included thunderstorms as we walked from the Art Gallery of New South Wales  back to our hotel...

We stayed in a cute area called Potts Point that is close to the Naval base and to the area called Kings Crossing  ('red light' district at night) but our area is residential with little shops and cafés and is quiet. We stayed in a boutique hotel cum B&B called Simpsons of Potts Point. It was built in 1892 in the English Queen Anne style and Arts and Crafts Movement of that period, typified by its many nooks and crannies, and use of red brick and moulded timber as distinct features. It was designed by renowned Victorian Architect John Bede Barlow.
                 
                         Jack walking to our hotel 
    Across the street from us

Wednesday February 28
We arrived on Wednesday evening in time to enjoy the museum. We walked down several flights of stairs in the rain, past the Naval installation, and Finger Wharf that used to be a wool shearing and shipping area and now has a trendy hotel ("Blue"), restaurants and bars. We headed up more stairs, past the train to the Royal Botanical Gardens and alas to the Art Gallery of NSW. 
In 1871, a public meeting was convened to establish an Academy of Art 'for the purpose of promoting the fine arts through lectures, art classes and regular exhibitions.' From 1872 until 1879 the Academy's main activity was the organization of annual art exhibitions. On 11 November 1880, at its 9th Annual Meeting, the Academy dissolved itself, stating that its aims had been realized in the foundation of a public museum. The collection is international in scope and mostly covering the last few hundred years. 

We focused on their indigenous and a few contemporary collections as well as having dinner in their cafe while listening to an indigenous band perform. Great fun!

Some of the contemporary aboriginal sculpture is reminiscent of Navajo folk art:

Some had a bit of humor:

I also found a contemporary found object piece that I loved:

Well, as "culture vultures" we got our first fix on our first evening in Sydney.

Thursday, February 27

You may recall that we met the first of two twin-brother cousins of mine at the beginning of our trip. Well, we had the good fortune of meeting the other, Sid and his wife, Judy, in Sydney. They insisted on picking us up Thurs morning to show us a it of their town. It was a perfect day to see the town by car as it rained all morning. 
We drove to Bondi Beach 

and on to Watson Bay home of a famous seafood restaurant, Doyle's.


As the rain lifted a bit we got to enjoy a bit of a walk and a Morton Bay Fig Tree.

Our cousins dropped us off at the Australian Museum for another look at indigenous art and a special exhibit called "menagerie." There I saw my favorite piece of art in all of Australia. 
But first, we met a colorful rhino...


Pukamini burial poles of the Tiwi people of Melville island at the north end of Australia.

Crocodile mask from the Torres Straight Islanders, c.1907
These pieces are from the people of the far north. The croc mask was made of turtle shell, feathers, etc was extraordinary. Imagine wearing that on your head!  The croc was a revered  totem for these people. Since we did not go that far north, we didn't encounter any crocs in the wild and opted out of zoos and such as we could see "wild" animals in captivity in our country. What we added to our understanding of the "first peoples"  here is that the Torres Straights island people are not considered aboriginal Australians. They come from the territory consisting of 200 islands between Australia and New Guinea, of which only 17 were inhabited.They are culturally and genetically Melanesian people, as are the people of Papua New Guinea. ( although the islands are part of Queensland).
 In 1994, in response to local demands for greater autonomy, the Torres Strait Regional Authority (TSRA) was established to allow Torres Strait islanders to manage their own affairs according to their own ailan kastom (island custom) and to develop a stronger economic base for the region. The TSRA is made up of 20 representatives elected by Torres Strait Islanders living in the islands.

The Torres Strait Islands Treaty signed by Australia and Papua New Guinea allows for free movement (without passports or visas) between Australia and Papua New Guinea for traditional activities in a limited zone of the Torres Strait.

In June 1992, the High Court of Australia recognized the native title rights of Eddie Mabo, an inhabitant of Murray Island (Mer), over his traditional land. The High Court overturned the previous concept of "terra nullius" which stated that in legal terms Australia was empty of inhabitants when it was first settled by Europeans. Since the Mabo decision, several communities (Saibai Islanders and Mualgal people from Moa Island) have secured legal recognition of their native title rights over their islands. Several other cases are also in progress.

 The transition of land rights back to "first peoples" is something we read about in many of the museums we visited and heard about from colleagues. One of our colleagues sits on the board of one of the communities where the aboriginal owners of the land are now negotiating with companies for access to the minerals in their land. Much like in family businesses, when newer "owners" are learning how to be effective stewards, but lack business experience, having independent directors can be helpful. This is a challenge faced bu a number of groups here who have won rights to the lands taken from them several hundred years ago.

The Dreaming

Since embarking on this journey, we have heard the term "dreaming" and seen artwork referring to dream time, but had a hard time describing when asked what it actually meant. This exhibit had a good definition:

"The dreaming has different meanings to different Aboriginal people. It is a complex network of knowledge, faith and practices that derives from stories of creation and which dominates all spiritual and physical aspects of Aboriginal life. the Dreaming sets out the structure of society, the rules for social behavior and the ceremonies performed in order to maintain the llfe of the land.  In essence the Dreaming came from the land and did not end with the arrival of the Europeans, but simply entered a new phase. It is a powewrful living force that must be maintained and cared for."


So like many native peoples who are close to  nature, their lives are intertwined between the natural and the supernatural, if you will. they live with a deep appreciation of nature and their art work and folk art reflect that appreciation.  My friend Jane (who was with us in Hamilton Island and O'Reilly's) had seen the Exhibit "Menagerie" and told us how wonderful she thought it was.  I agree.
                            
Different media capturing traditional themes:

Netting and metal

And by Marina Murdilnga, who comes from Arnheim Land at the top of Australia,
My favorite....wouldn't it be perfect in our house??   And then a close up of the weaving:


And some comments about her work from her:


Jack and I stopped in the museum Cafe for a coffee before heading to our hotel to clean up for the opera... Carmen at Sydney opera house!
We had Mediterranean dips and wine at Opera Bar looking out over the harbor... 

Up close to the architecture

But the performance was the high point! What an amazing production...I could swear those were real fires on stage in the gypsy camp! The lighting was wonderful and the voices and dance were superb. I obeyed the " no photo edict" so the photo below was from their website..
Carmen was played by a Serbian mezzo soprano Milijana Nikolic, whom we loved. Turns out this was Jack's first opera and he started with a wonderful experience. We both were thrilled and the four acts went by very fast. 

Friday

After a full day and a late evening, we were off to a Slow start this morning. This was our full day to tour  downtown and we decided to use the bus that shows you the city and you can get on and off all day...given the rain, we stayed on till it let up and we were at The Rocks.

The Rocks became established shortly after the colony's formation in 1788. The original buildings were made mostly of local sandstone, from which the area derives its name. From the earliest history of the settlement, the area had a reputation as slum, often frequented by visiting sailors...over the centuries there were attempts to tear it down and redevelop it. Not until the 1970s was the community successful and it is now a tourist destination filled with shops, pubs and markets.



We got back on the bus and headed for Queen Victoria building:


We were getting a bit weary of the city and the crowds and were glad to see a few animals:

Another rhino

Two of three monkeys
And a Dino?

Back to the hotel to clean up before we joined the other commuters on the train to the suburbs to have sabbath dinner with our cousins, Sid and Judy, their son, Ryan, inlaws and cousins and a wonderful meal! what a pleasure to spend time in a home with new friends who happen to be kin.  The Peiperts went out of their way to help us feel at home in their country and in their lives.  we hope that they will come visit us when they visit other family in the U.S.

Saturday

Our plan was to wonder about in the morning and then meet up with Judy and Sid after they attend shul and visit the northern beahes (Manley area).  But Jack didn't sleep well and wasn't up to par, so he slept more in the morning and we headed out by ourselves for a walk and lunch and came back and rested before going out to dinner with the Peiperts a bit closer in.  Jack and I visited a gallery called "Object" which was a design center  




and had a light lunch at a cheese shop/restaurant. As it turns out,this is when Sydney was celebrating Mardi Gras and the streets were getting closed off and people were getting food and ice and costumes to party.  This is primarily a gay and lesbian event and the city was getting geared up...even the banking institutions were participating!

                                               

Our very gracious cousins picked us up and took us across the bridge to an area called "crows nest" with many restaurants where we had diinner at an Italian restaurant owned by a friend.  The most exceptional part of the meal was the gelato we shared at the end....,mmmmmm.
    Syd and Judy

Sunday, March 2 transition home

So...our final day in Sydney and sun still did not shine.
we packed up, had breakfast and said goodbye to our hosts at Simpsons and headed for the airport.
Given our challenges on the way over, he checked in early yesterday...double checked and got to the airport early...and of course our flight was 30 minutes late!  But we are settled in the seats/class we purchased and are heading towards Los Angeles and then on to Phoenix. 

Jack settled into his business class cubbie heading home

What a trip this has been!
It's hard to remember back to January 31 and our flight over....
to the mad dash through LAX
to the arrival in Melbourne and meeting the first Pieperts!

Our travels have been greatlly enhanced by the kind hospitality of our new-found relaltives
and our Australian Colleagues, Jill, Ken and Anthea.  We were so fortunate to have had
people to visit with in half of our stops. What a difference that made.  Plus, having the great fun of traveling and collaborating with my partner and his wife, in two of the spots.  We did travel well together (even hanging out on the trapeze together!)  

So we wanted to see the great underwater world of Australia...check
Hang out with the animals that are unique to this region....check
Learn about the Aboriginal culture..check
Learn a bit about the sports here....why that's cricket!
See the mountains of the area...yep
Explore ideas about family business down under...that we did.
and see if I could travel for a month---even without my laptop...well-done, mate!!

Now, we have to see how it feels to go into re-entry to our "regular" life.... now that 
seems a bit daunting!!

Thanks for traveling along with us....
having this record of our trip is important to our remembering some of what we experienced.
It was a bountiful excursion.
Leslie and Jack.  



2 comments:

  1. Wow! Sounds like another great adventure for you and Jack!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Enjoyed your blog. It brought back so many memories. The Queen Victoria Building was fascinating. I took lots of photos there. Glad you had a great adventure.

    ReplyDelete